A mosaic on the ground floor reads nunc eat bibendum ("now is the time to drink ... What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Even the set lunch menu here feels gratifyingly grand.

Bibendum first opened 30 years ago and the Terence Conran-run Chelsea restaurant is now a bona fide ... but the layer of over-floral, just-set jelly that covered it won’t be for all.